i feel like such a...BADASS!!!!!

After having arranged last night to go surf Nusa Dua today, I had a slightly anxious sleep, and woke up cursing my impetuosity, wanting very much to cancel the arrangement.
“51 is not the new 40, it’s the new Stupid!” I thought,
“this is crazy - I must bail - this is insane - I have to cancel”
… an arrangement to go with Some Guy from the surf shop with 2 boards ON HIS SCOOTER 40 minutes away to a reef break I’ve never seen, when I don’t even know if my shoulder will hold up to surfing at all… and me without having written my Last Will & Testament…!
If you haven't been to Bali, it may be hard to appreciate the full depth of the riskiness this plan entails - driving here is a thoroughly white-knuckle affair for those of us not born into; its a lawless free-for-all of scooters, motorbikes, trucks and cars, rules and right of way an optional affair, the idea of lanes, laughable, and the traffic impenetrable and constant.
HOWEVER… I couldn't contact the guy to cancel on him, and so, I told the Australian Sisters who are my neighbors to call the consulate if I wasn’t back by evening, and I sat on that scooter, wedged in with the boards on one side, told myself I’d had a good life and this wasn’t a bad way to go if it came to that, and off we went.
AND I DIDN'T DIE!!!
It was a blast, the freedom, and feeling of Not Dying , was so totally exhilarating - knowing I could die at any moment brought a crisp clarity to everything, and I was SO happy to be there, choking on diesel fumes and willing us through the dizzying squeeze and swerve and swoop of it all…
AND I managed to surf for almost an hour & a half before my shoulder totally gave out. It’s a beautiful break - mostly lefts, waist high at best, clean and peeling over reef and vegetable bottom, the shallows warm as tea water… PERFECT :))))))
I only wished I'd had one of my own boards, but as least this one (a sluggish,8'+ epoxy tri-fin) doesn't have a dick on it! everything here in Kuta seems to have a dick on it...
Iwan, my new surf buddy, super nice guy, and excellent driver-who-didn’t-get-me-killed, is picking me up again tomorrow - maybe we’ll go back to Nusa Dua, maybe somewhere else (onshore winds an issue at a lot of spots right now), but the swell is getting bigger and we are going to have some serious FUN!!!
oh, and I wasn't sure where we’d be able to leave stuff safely, so I didn't bring my phone or anything, but will try to get some photos of the break (wherever we go) tomorrow.